Thakoon Fall-Winter 2013-2014 RTW Fashion Show
THAKOON PANICHGUL is not one of New York's sportswear-orientated designers - of which there are many. He's more interested in the pretty and poetic and that's exactly the direction he's taking us in for autumn/winter 2013-14, a winter garden to be precise.
"It was really about the idea of winter longing for summer," explained the designer after the show, as actress Christina Ricci congratulated him. "I was inspired by the story Dandelion Wine - in it the family bottle up dandelions for the winter months" - and so it was the idea of maintaining a sense of summer while those hard months hit that anchored this collection. "I treated it with a memory quality," Thakoon revealed, noting the mix of pretty tea dresses with furs layered on top, but in pretty pink and lavender shades to create something wistful.
"I wanted to work with black a lot but I didn't want it to be heavy, so we inserted these custom-made tulle panels to give it architecture," he said. These were the dresses that opened the show - dandelion-printed, waisted, gently belted and oh-so pretty.
There was a quirkiness and a charm to it all - the glitter eye-make-up, the blunt off-centre fringes and the incredible line-up of glitter loafers care of Laurence Dacade for Thakoon, not to mention branch ear cuffs in yellow sapphire, pearl and diamond by jeweller Tasaki.
"It's a bit like a dream, there's always something nostalgic, whimsical," he described, adding that there was still a need for the sexy too - but it was never brash.
Where other designers have been more overt in tackling the winter season this week, it was really nice to see that summer can still factor into a winter wardrobe and no matter how chilly it gets, there's still a way to capture - or bottle - that sartorial warmth: the Thakoon way.
Thakoon presents a poetic and delicate collection, where feminine shapes are enhanced by prints in dusty colors, transparencies, lace inserts, and touches of fur to warm up dresses that are almost spring-like. Abstract embroidery of dragonflies, dandelions, and daisies bring us to a dreamy and innocent world that is rendered contemporary through the use of hi-tech fabrics, with black as a base color, and the creation of the dresses developed with inlays and contrasting fabric inserts
navy blue, black, blue oil, chocolate, wheat, lavender
stretch wool, nappa, lace, goat fur, cotton poplin, cotton satin, mohair, duchesse, point d'esprit, bouclé wool, neoprene
sleeveless dresses in point d'esprit and printed or flock stretch silk; fur in goat skin with little spots worn with printed tunics; ponyskin collar-stoles are secured with a belt and accompany straight dresses ; sporty and boxy printed blousons with miniskirts
booties with rounded toes and medium heels; penny loafers in metallic nappa or patent leather with low heels
by: Tiziana Cardini, via: http://www.vogue.it/en/