Anthony Vaccarello Spring-Summer 2014 RTW Fashion Show

“A girl always looks her best wearing a swimsuit,” declared Anthony Vaccarello backstage at his focused show, “and my idea was for my girl to wear a swimsuit like an urban uniform next summer.” So, to a sound track of Janis Joplin’s super slow version of “Summertime,” Vaccarello sent out the skimpiest summer dresses, fashioned from the bonded jersey traditionally used for swimwear, on his admittedly ultra-honed, pool-side fabulous, va-va-voom cabine of glamazons.

Those micro dresses and skirts had been cut with a graphic diamond point in front and a longer flap in back—modesty barely preserved by broad, anchoring straps joining front and back, attached with the shiny domed buttons used for French naval uniforms. Vaccarello also used that utilitarian object as a graphic embellishment, dotting it on an inky suede dress or a silvery chain mail knit.

The designer used lace for the first time—mixing swirling patchworks of leopard-pattern black lace with a cobweb-fine design for asymmetric dresses that veiled and revealed with every purposeful stride. His girls teetered on spindly heels cuffed at the ankle with metal-ringed padded leather cuffs that resembled Moroccan bracelets.

Vaccarello also debuted his first denim pieces—micro shorts, skirts, and cuffed pants tie-dyed Jackson Pollock-style and worn with boyfriend white cotton shirts—that revealed a softer side of summer that will surely appeal to a front row that included those totems of edgy cool Alice Dellal and Lou Doillon.
by Hamish Bowles, via: vogue